A CELEBRATION OF JAPANESE ARTISTRY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP
Renowned for its exquisite beauty and rich historical significance, Echizen lacquerware (Echizen shikki in Japanese) stands as a testament to the enduring tradition of Japanese craftsmanship. Originating from the Echizen region in Fukui Prefecture, Japan, this distinctive form of lacquerware has been celebrated for its delicate artistry, intricate designs, and the meticulous processes involved in its creation.
Though the art of Echizen lacquerware has evolved over centuries, preserving age-old techniques while adapting to contemporary tastes, the roots of Echizen lacquerware can be traced back to the Nara period (710-794 AD), though it is during the Heian period (794-1185 AD) that the craft began to flourish. It is said that it originated in the Fukui village of Katayama, which is where the city of Sabae stands today.
Surrounded by mountains, Echizen was not suitable for agriculture, but the region’s natural resources, including high-quality lac resin and abundant forests, made Echizen an ideal location for the development of lacquerware. Early Echizen lacquerware was known for its durability, with craftsmen incorporating local materials such as gold, silver, and powdered metals to embellish the lacquered surfaces.
By the Kamakura period (1185-1333), Echizen lacquerware had gained recognition as one of the prominent regional styles in Japan. During this time, the art form began to evolve and diversify, with more intricate designs, including geometric patterns and nature-inspired motifs. The wealth and patronage of the samurai class in the feudal era helped further elevate the status of Echizen lacquerware, with nobles commissioning elaborate pieces for both functional and ceremonial purposes.
CRAFTSMANSHIP AND TECHNIQUES
The suiting and the experience was far from typical and led to a splendid array of outstanding fashion moments. Nutter, unpredictable in behavior, indulged his clients with irreverent criticism and playful humor, often ending his conversation with the expression, “But who am I to talk?” Some of Nutter’s most recognizable commissions include Mick Jagger’s three-piece wedding suit with extra wide lapels (a Nutter signature) and John Lennon’s slim wedding suit for his marriage to Yoko Ono.
Apart from a penchant for outfitting celebrity nuptials, Nutter also suited three of the four Beatles for their famous Abbey Road album cover in 1969. Bianca Jagger was an ongoing client which Mick begrudgingly allowed. She preferred the tailoring of a men’s suit and Nutter crafted an iconic wide-leg trouser variation, the photographs of which are widely referenced. Another devoted client was Elton John, whom Nutter designed an endless selection of flamboyant suits for, one standout being the contrasting black-and-white tailed ensemble he wore at Wembley Stadium in 1984.
At first glance Nutter’s influence on fashion, albeit substantial, seems to have dissipated as quickly as the spirit of the ‘60s itself. After a series of unfortunate events, including losing his business (he would regain it later) and the emotional toll of his brother’s drug use and depression, he found himself on the other side of two decades, in many ways, defeated.
MODERN-DAY REVIVAL AND APPRECIATION
Although the demand for traditional lacquerware declined during the Meiji period (1868-1912) with the introduction of Western-style products, there has been a resurgence of interest in Echizen lacquerware in recent decades. It was designated as a traditional Japanese craft in 1975, and the form can be seen applied to Echizen hammered blades, Echizen chests, Echizen pottery, Echizen Japanese paper, and Wakasa lacquered chopsticks, as well as in the eyeglasses and textile industries.
Contemporary artists and craftsmen are also breathing new life into the tradition, experimenting with new techniques while respecting the craftsmanship of their predecessors. This revival has been fueled by an increasing global appreciation for Japanese art and craftsmanship, with Echizen lacquerware being featured in museums and collections worldwide, and pieces such as lacquered trays, bowls, and trays are increasingly used as decorative accents in traditional and contemporary interiors.
Much more than a decorative art form, Echizen lacquerware is a living tradition that reflects the skill, creativity, and cultural heritage of the Japanese people. With its intricate craftsmanship, unique techniques, and timeless elegance, Echizen lacquerware continues to captivate the hearts of collectors and connoisseurs around the world. Its enduring legacy is a testament to the meticulous care and artistry that go into creating each piece, ensuring that this centuries-old tradition will thrive for generations to come.